Tuesday, 23 January 2018

Black & white striped waistcoat

My first completed sewing project of 2018! I started this waistcoat a couple of months ago and finished it about two weeks ago. I really must get better with posting things when they are finished.

The inspiration for this waistcoat was this drawing by Fyodor Pavlov. (Warning! He draws some NSFW stuff.)
I've had a striped fabric just line the one in the drawing in my stash for several years, and thought a waistcoat in it would be lovely.
By a happy coincidence, this drawing has hair very similar to mine!
 While I have complaints about my version, as usual, it came together fairly well.
The fabric is a somewhat sateen-y somewhat twill-y cotton print I've had for a few years now. The back is thick, soft black linen. The button covers and piping are black cotton sateen, and the lining is an obnoxious checked print on a stiff, thin cotton.

I made the piping with a thin cotton cord I found on a spool in the storage room. 
Tiny piping.
I piped the whole front edge and the tops of the pocket welts.
Pocket welts before being sewn in.
I basted a piece of hair canvas interfacing in each of these before I added them to the waistcoat.
I machine basted hair canvas interfacing to a white cotton interlining, and basted that in place. It isn't very stiff, even when sewn to another layer of material. I really, really need to get some proper buckram interfacing, because this stuff isn't working well at all.

My buttons are made from Burnley & Trowbridge bone button molds. I got the 3/8 inch ones, and they're so cute! So very tiny! Any smaller and they'd have been impossible to cover neatly.
My buttonholes are not very pretty. None of my buttonholes are, and that's something I hope to improve on this year. The floats of the fabric makes the edges of the buttonholes look more ragged than they would otherwise, and the thread is a bit off-white against the bright white of the fabric.
I am pleased with my pockets! They don't line up 100% exactly because the fabric has a little bit of horizontal stretch, but I got them as perfect as I could.
I think the piping could stand to be a tiny bit thicker.

The obnoxious lining.
Though my mockup fit quite well, the finished waistcoat makes some rather big wrinkles on my shoulders, especially the left one. Perhaps it warped a bit while I was sewing it, because of that irksome bit of stretch.
Maybe it's because of my scootching it over a bit so the first two stripes on the collar would line up with the neckhole stripes better...

It would be nice if the stripes lined up perfectly in the front, but if the front of the waistcoat were a straight line it wouldn't sit right on me.
The shirt in these pictures is an awful shabby old cotton one (from the fashion show) because my nicer shirts were in the laundry, but I shall have a new shirt finished very soon!


  1. Absolutely scrumptious work! So clean and precise. I love the obnoxious print!

    1. Thank you! Clean and precise is what I was going for!

  2. I agree, clean and precise and I love that obnoxious check print also. I think it's really lovely. You did a great job on that piece.
    Hugs, Mamoo