Thursday, 30 November 2017

Grey Poly-taffeta Breeches

I've finished my third pair of breeches!

They're made of polyester one-way stretch taffeta and lined in a slightly stretchy polka dot cotton blend of some sort, both from the clearance pile.
Not the sort of stuff I prefer to work with, but it was such a pretty shiny grey, and so cheap! Plus, the one-way stretch lets me bend my knees a bit further. (I also want to perfect my breeches sewing with cheaper stuff before I do any in expensive fabrics. Breeches are complicated beasts.)
I thought the construction through and planned things rather better this time around.
They're cut so the stretch runs up and down.
I sewed almost all the seams by machine. The only hand finishing is at the knee-band, the four eyelets in the back, and the button covers.
I forgot to take pictures of the waistband, but it's interfaced with a layer of hair canvas machine basted to a layer of cotton canvas (which is lighter than the super heavy cotton canvas I've used for the first 2 pairs), and it's lined in a black cotton twill because I wanted something sturdier than the polka dot stuff.

In my first two pairs I cut a hole in the waistband interfacing for the welt pocket to go through, but I have no idea why I did that. I guess because I'm used to doing it for coats and things, but if it's just a watch pocket that's covered up by your waistcoat there's no point. 'Twas a foolish thing to do, so for this pair the pocket sits in front.
Things have to be done in a weird order to get in as much machine sewing as possible.
 The buttonholes are machine sewn, and cut with these wonderful scissors that I've had for years without realizing what they were for.

I love my buttonhole scissors!
The breeches are cut from the same pattern as the first two pairs, and I'm mostly pleased with the fit, but still need to make a couple of adjustments. The bottom of the inseam is too far forward, and there is not enough butt room. I added some to the pattern after my last pair, but it still needs more.

 Next time I will hopefully achieve the accurate amount of full-buttedness.
Needs more room! The gathers back there look far too sad and sparse.

 I finally got a pair of breeches buckles! They're these ones from Burnley & Trowbridge.
They were very, very blunt and I had to spend a long time sharpening them with a metal file before they were able to poke through the fabric, but they're sturdy and nice looking and they work.

I should replace the knee-bands on my other two pairs so I can buckle them too.
This would have looked much better if I'd bent my knee. Oh well.
I'm happy with how they turned out, considering what they're made of. They make a very synthetic sounding swish when I walk in them, but the fabric looks pretty good.

1 comment:

  1. The breeches does look a bit complicated but you sure did a nice job. The next one will be perfect. You have amazing sewing skills and I like those scissors. I don't think I ever saw a buttonhole scissors before.
    Hugs, Mamoo