I am so very happy with how it turned out.
Early American Life article, with a few changes based on the cotton shirt I tested the pattern with.
Measurements for the pieces are as follows:
Main Body: 25" x 30"- cut 2
Sleeves: 25" x 25"- cut 2
Collar: 8" x 16.5"- cut 1
Cuffs: 9" x 3"- cut 4
Shoulder Reinforcements: 20" x 6.5"- Cut 2
Shoulder Strips: 3" x 9.5"- cut 2
Underarm Gussets: 5" x 5"- cut 2
Hem Gussets: 2" x 2"(triangular)- cut 4
Neck Gussets: 4" x 4"(triangular)- cut 4
Ruffles: 2.5" wide by 2-3 times the length of the edge that they will be attached to.
|All of the cut out pieces.|
|The finished shoulder seam.|
I marked a line down the CF of the shirt body and down the middle of the ruffle. I box pleated it to the CF line, and it ended up going about 7" down the front of the shirt.
|Backstitching the pleats on.|
|From the right side.|
|The shoulder reinforcement on the inside of the shirt.|
The hem gussets were sewn to the split in the side seam in the same manner as the neck gussets.
|I was careful not to get wax on anything.|
|The sleeve vent.|
|A cuff about to be attached.|
|Sewing on the cuff.|
|And the other side of the cuff.|
I made them using very thick linen thread. I followed the method shown on this Victorian Tailoring post.
|Making buttonhole stitches.|
|The underside of a finished button.|
|Aren't they cute? I think they could be used for the little|
white sprigs in a flower bouquet.
I considered adding a laundry mark(my initials in red cross- stitch) but decided there was no point. Nobody is going to be confused about whose shirt this is, and I can always add one later if I want to.
|Wrist ruffles and claws go so nicely together.|
The Challenge: # 13- Under $10
Fabric: Soft linen, crisp probably- linen.
Pattern: From a magazine article, with a few alterations by me. All the measurements are given in the post above.
Year: Second half of the 18th century.
Notions: Thin linen thread, silk thread, thick linen thread.
How historically accurate is it? Very. I can safely say that this is the most accurate thing I have ever made.
Hours to complete: Unknown
First worn: July 14th, 2014
Total cost: Less than a dollar. The only thing I bought was the silk thread.
I tried it on with my unfinished coat to see if the ruffles would stick out the right amount, and they did!