Tuesday, 7 January 2014

Silvery Grey Waistcoat- Not Much Of Anything So Far

Guess what? I made another UFO.
This is my third unfinished waistcoat. I started it a couple of weeks ago.
Sketching out the pocket flap, with lots of traced pictures for reference.
It's one of the variations of the same pattern I used for the fur trimmed waistcoat.
It's based on several similar historical examples.
Silk waistcoat, c. 1780-89. The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
That one has different pockets from my pattern, which is closer to the waistcoat in this fashion plate.
Manner of wearing informal mourning.
Vest of white silk embroidered with black, under a black coat of silk or wool. Galerie des Modes. 1781 (source)
I originally made the pocket bags to follow the same general shape as the pocket flaps, but trimmed down one side because it doesn't make any sense for them to flare in the back like that.
I'm not going to bother trimming it off the already cut out pocket pieces. They are made of the same futon casing as the pockets for the fur trimmed waistcoat.
It's hard to find definitive information on 18th century waistcoat interfacing. I read that some of them had the skirt part interfaced, so I'm putting an extra layer of linen in the area beneath the pocket, along with the usual hair canvas down the front.
There will only be a tiny bit of overlap between these two pieces.
The interfacing is the only part that isn't cut out yet.
The front and back pieces.
The back is made from more strips of the gift linen, but in a different colour. The lining is more of the futon casing. The fronts are silver-grey dupioni.
I have quite a lot of dupioni. I know it's not accurate, but my local Fabricville doesn't carry silk taffeta. I have seen loads of synthetic taffeta there, and loads of silk dupioni, but never silk taffeta. They mostly have synthetics or blends, which is extremely annoying.
I had to piece part of this lining too.
I started sewing this waistcoat with blueish silk thread, but then I found this giant spool of matching grey silk thread in with Mama's yarn, which she let me use.
Things are progressing very slowly. I have marked out the locations of the pocket corners with tailors tacks.
The pocket goes here.
And started sewing the pocket flaps. I used a running stitch to sew all the edges except the top one.
It's lined with the same linen as the back is made of.
I turned and pressed it, and very carefully stab stitched along the top edge. I folded the linen edge in a little further than the outward stuff (I love that term and I am going to start using it), so it will be hidden from view.
I have started to go along the edge with a running stitch, which is looking very nice so far.
But aside from the piecing, this is all that I have sewn on this waistcoat.
Why is it so much easier to start projects than to finish them? Three unfinished waistcoats is ridiculous.
Hopefully my next post will be about a finished fur trimmed waistcoat, which is due in 8 days. That should be plenty of time.

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