I finished my mitts!
|The colours are washed out in this picture. The purple is actually much darker.|
I drew a pattern based on some arm measurements, and after a couple of mockups it looked pretty good.
|The final mockup. It might have been the second or third, I don't remember.|
|The pattern, after the thumb alteration mentioned below.|
|This is what the colours actually look like.|
I guessed at the proper construction as well as I could based on close-ups from the numerous extant examples. All the pieces are cut on the bias.
I used a backstitch to sew the triangle of silk to the lining on one side.
jacket sleeves, I did the same with these mitts. I left the wide ends open so that I could hem them later.
|The two layers sewn together with a running stitch.|
I also waxed every single bit of thread I used, which is something I usually forget to do. I got a new beeswax cake and it's much better than the old one, which I suspect wasn't entirely beeswax.
|Old wax on the left, new wax on the right. You can see part of the thumb at the bottom of this picture.|
|The thumb edge being finished.|
I drew three lines on the backs of the hands, then whip-stitched along them to make little ridges, just like this pair from the Met.
|Little ridges. The stitching catches the lining too, so they stand up quite well.|
|The line of chalk marks where the thumb seam lines up.|
|All the the seam allowances being tucked neatly away.|
|Chalk lines kept the stitches from varying too much in width.|
|It needed this much extra room.|
I inserted a tiny scrap of fabric, both on the outside and on the lining, to correct the fit. I added this change to the pattern.
|Extra piece of fabric, whipstitched in.|
|The lining after being trimmed. That way, when I folded it over twice, the hem only had two thicknesses of linen in it.|
I think I may have made a mistake in choosing the blue linen just because it was blue. A thinner, stiffer linen would have worked better, even though my linens of that description are brown. The blue stuff stretches and wrinkles more than it should.
Historical Sew Fortnightly button on my blog, but keep forgetting, so here it is.
# 2- UFO
# 4- Embellish
# 7- Accessorize
# 16- Separates
# 20- Outerwear
The Challenge: # 24: Re-do
Fabric: Dark purple silk that was labeled as dupioni but is really more like taffeta with a few little slubs, thick light blue linen, bright blue silk that is similar in texture to the purple, but slightly thinner.
Pattern: Drafted by me.
Year: I'm not exactly sure, 1750's to 90's maybe.
Notions: Blue silk thread, purple cotton thread.
How historically accurate is it? Pretty good. The materials aren't perfectly accurate, but the look is very close, and the construction and pattern are accurate to the best of my knowledge.
Hours to complete: 22 hours, 17 minutes
First worn: November 24th, 2013
Total cost: I don't remember how much I paid for the metre of purple silk, but it was years ago and I had no plan for it, so I think it counts as $0.