|Here it is.|
|Here is the original. (source)|
Here is the rest of the construction.
The cuffs on the original are very odd. They have one button and then there is an open slit. Since I had already changed the belt design, I made my cuffs button closed, like on this jacket.
I covered 8 wooden buttons in silk. Some of the buttons had to be carved away and sanded down a little because they weren't all the same size.
|They are covered with a big circle of silk, and a very small circle to help cover the holes.|
|The first buttonhole being finished. These are the best buttonholes I have made so far.|
There are white ruffles on the cuffs of the original. You can't see them in the picture I posted but they are there. I made mine out of one of the selvages leftover from the thing that I must now call a buffon.
|The ruffle, attached to the inside of the cuff.|
This will make the ruffles easier to remove for cleaning. My ruffles came out a bit longer than the ones in the book. I must measure more carefully next time.
|The finished cuffs. The buttons make me happy.|
I whip-stitched the left side of the gathered front panel to the bodice.
The other edge is fastened with 14 hook and bar closures. Hooks and eyes would have been unnecessarily wide.
|The finished jacket on the porch. I need to correct the angle of the upper edge on the gathered panel.|
|A closeup of the bars that the hooks hook on to.|
|The right end of the belt.|
|Trim being scrunched up.|
This seems to have fixed the problem of the back edge of the neckline being pulled outward.
|I love ruching. I'm not quite sure how it's pronounced though.|
I am not properly dressed in these pictures because we are still at the cottage and I only packed the necessary undergarments. When I get back home I will take properly accessorized pictures.
Update: Here they are.
I also promise to take good pictures of all the pattern pieces, many of which have been edited during the construction of this jacket.
|From the front|
I think that a lot of the problems can be blamed on the fabric, which is so thin it's almost sheer.
|From the side.|
|From the back.|
This jacket has such a ridiculously tiny tail. I have never seen one remotely close to this size on any other 18th century jacket.
|I love the cuffs.|
The Challenge: #16, Separates
Fabric: Flea-coloured silk fabric that I don't know the name of. It is thin, crispy, and somewhat slubby. Plain white linen for the bodice lining. Thin, stiff brown linen for the sleeve linings and the back of the gathered panel. One small piece of thick brown linen for the back of the belt. Thin, gauzy cotton for the cuff ruffles.
Pattern: Drafted by me
Year: c. 1790
Notions: 2 thin black zip ties, 18" of cotton bias tape, 180 cm of seam binding, 138 cm of lacing, 8 wooden buttons, 18 hook & bar closures, thread.
How historically accurate is it? Not too bad. The look is accurate. Some of the materials are accurate, but a lot of them are not. The construction is at least partly accurate, but it's hard to tell with such an unusual style of jacket.
Hours to complete: 114 hours and 7 minutes. Patterning not included.
First worn: August 13th, 2013 (I tried it on lots of times before that to make sure it fit.)
Total cost: $0. Everything was from the stash.
I fully intend to make this pattern up again as soon as I get my hands on some pink taffeta. When that happens I will try to copy the look of the original as closely as possible.
|This is the side where the fastenings are. They are nicely inconspicuous from a distance.|