Because the silk is so very thin I decided to back the gathered front panel with some stiff, fine linen.
|The silk pinned to the linen.|
|The linen is a reasonably close shade of brown.|
|The pointlessly sloped edge hemmed and the top corner edge about to be hemmed.|
|One edge edge-stitched, and the other edge not edge-stitched yet.|
I made a 1/2 cm channel about 2.5 cm below the rolled hem and another about 2 cm from the bottom edge. I put 2 eyelets in the center front of both channels. They turned out much better than those hideous linen bagels on the front of the lining.
I threaded the binding in with a blunt needle, pulled it out through the weave and stitched it to the back of the hem.
|The top drawstring is on the left of the picture and the bottom one is on the right. None of this shows on the outside.|
|The almost finished panel (folded).|
|Those threads were not very easy to tie off.|
|The edge is narrow enough now.|
I tucked in all the edges except the armholes and the bottom edge and basted them again.
|The top edge, tucked in. I had to pin the edges, then pull out the basting, then tuck them in and baste them.|
I don't know how this style of jacket would have been lined. I must do more research.
I stitched around the top edge with small stab-stitching.
|The top edge stitched, with the basting still there.|
The fabric didn't quite reach around to the front of the armhole on the right side, so I had to patch it with a scrap.
|The basting around the armhole and the bottom edge is in brown thread because it is permanent.|
|Permanent basting on either side of the tail, temporary yellow basting above the tail.|
|Helpful arrow pointing to mysterious ridge.|
|It goes right under the edge of the tail.|
I am very fond of small stab-stitching.
|The finished tail from the underside.|
|The finished tail from the outside. The curved edges face inwards now, so the pleats should lie properly.|
|The silk sleeve piece pinned to the corresponding linen piece.|
|The sleeve being whipstitched together, wrong sides out.|
|I love the pointy elbows, they let you bend your arm.|
|Starting to attach the sleeve. The running stitch that is already there is the basting.|
|The scruffiness of these edges annoys me, but they don't fray or get in the way.|
|I ironed the hem first so that I would know where to put the flap.|
|The cuff hem over top of the button flap.|
I apologize for posting this so late.
I am at a cottage at the moment and sewing here is not particularly easy. It is a very small cottage and there are 7 other people in it (actually, the surplus people sleep in a tent), so there is next to no sewing space. I have set up a horrible, lumpy little ironing board on top of a dresser and am doing my best to get the jacket finished on time.
|Pathetic, isn't it? I don't even have the entire dresser top to work on, I have to share it with a fan and a stack of magazines.|
We will be here until the 19th and since there is no room here to work on a pattern or even cut out fabric, this means I will be late starting my Robes and Robings project. I plan to use the extra time to catch up on the embroidered pockets.